I traveled to Aix-en-Provence as part of my ‘Zola pilgrimage’ since the author spent most of his childhood there (along with his best friend Paul Cezanne). However, the history of this Mediterranean-style city is much more storied going back to ancient Roman times with its spring fed thermal spas. It’s central old town grew and developed under centuries of royal and aristocratic influences until it became the maze of narrow streets and squares and fountains that is is today. (2025)
The heart of Aix-en-Provence in the old city with narrow cobblestone streets and a signature Italian style in it many buildings of yellow stucco and terra cotta roofs.
Known as a city of fountains, each square seems to have a unique one many centuries old. A few of them are pictured here.
The city is also known for its shops and confectionaries, especially those making the famous almond paste and candied fruit treats known as calissons
The cathedral at Aix has some amazing architecture including a fifth-century baptistry topped by an elaborate Renaissance roof.
The rugged landscape around the city was a favorite subject for Cezanne’s painting. Today you can hike the trails of the Massif Saint Victoire including visiting the dam which Emile Zola’s father designed.
